The latest incarnation of Richard Muir’s seafood restaurant has its own pros and cons

Café Fish has shifted from Leith to Stockbridge with most of its style, staff and seafood-led menu intact. Donald Reid visited the reincarnation

Despite its relative success since opening in 2009 beside The Plumed Horse in Leith, Café Fish upped sticks earlier this summer and moved into the former Zanzero site in Stockbridge. Hoping to bring the restaurant to the notice of a larger audience, owner Richard Muir also acknowledges the challenges of the location, a former bank, where he has reinstated Art Deco features, brought the kitchen pass into the restaurant and created a slightly stark feel thanks to high windows, lowered lights, white walls and aluminium tables. That aside, there’s a lot of the original formula in evidence, with chef Stuart Lynch’s short but energetic set-price dinner menu offering often boldly flavoured and complex dishes such as chilli potted shrimps, confit octopus with a caper-studded parsley salad or roast cod with vanilla spiked borlotti beans. Notable features of the new venue are the west-facing deck outside for al fresco drinks and snacks, a broader wine list, and a little extra space to accommodate the increased rate of walk-ins that the stroll down from the New Town will surely deliver.

+ The best bits of a good fish restaurant still going strong
- Too many shades of grey in the interior

Café Fish
15 North West Circus Place, Stockbridge, Edinburgh EH3 6SX
0131 225 4431
Ave. price two-course meal: £22 (lunch/dinner)

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Ah, Edinburgh’s Stockbridge, an area of our city that undoubtedly has its very own bohemian-village ambience. It’s the perfect place to seek out a laid-back lunch, or indeed an indulgent evening meal. Fittingly then, Cafe Fish, previously located in Leith, has recently swum uptown to what is possibly the perfect neighbourhood for its fresh seafood and relaxed sophistication

I decided on potted shrimps and sourdough toast to start, a dish which sits somewhere between a buttery risotto and a flavoursome terrine. The shrimp to sourdough ratio

was weighted towards the former which was simply a delicious bonus! My fellow fish fan chose chilli & lemon-marinated octopus with potato, remarking that although it appeared rather dry without dressing, the fresh octopus was the star of the show and there was just enough tangy marinade to allow it to shine.

For my main course I opted for the North Atlantic cod which could have been a deep sea weightlifter (it was titanic!)  although still tender enough that it flaked easily under the slightest pressure from my fork. The accompanying sauce, beans and bacon, was tasty and rich but cleverly composed so as to not distract from my enjoyment of the fresh fish. Cafe Fish & Chips was chosen by my companion and was thoroughly enjoyed. The hake had a traditional if somewhat lighter ‘chip shop batter’; a crunchy coating that evoked the seaside.  And the chunky chips were declared as crispy and soft; the best oxymoron when it comes to chips!

To finish, I decided on lemon & lime cheesecake. The topping was more light mousse

than heavy cream and a relief to the tummy after such a substantial main course. The citrus flavours delicately teased rather than startled the palate; the raspberry sauce, a pleasantly tart contrast. My cohort, not being a ‘dessert person’, requested the cheeseboard and was duly accommodated with some quality goats’ cheese, quince and oatcakes.

Cafe Fish serves fantastically fresh and delicious food whilst retaining its laid back and, dare I say it, ‘cafe’ atmosphere. And after all, are these not the sort of vibes we indulge when we find ourselves in this part of town? (D.King)

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The recent run of glorious weekend weather inspired a new mission, one which unfortunately did not come into fruition.

Apparently, getting a table outside Cafe Fish in Stockbridge on a Saturday afternoon is comparable to finding a needle in the proverbial hay stack. Since this was my second failed attempt to enjoy fish outdoors, I conceded, and accepted a table inside Cafe Fish so I could at least satisfy one of my two cravings.

As we perused the menu, I soon forgot about the glorious sunshine outside, as I became intoxicated by the smell of seafood. My decision was entirely straightforward. My love for mussels means that wherever they feature on a menu, you can be sure I will order them. However, my dining partners were unable to decide between numerous options, all of which implied an array of delectable flavours. Finally a decision was made and we were ready to order. I opted for a large portion of Shetland Blueshell  mussels (£12), cooked with tomatoes, chilli and coriander, served with a side of homemade chips.

The mussels were cooked perfectly, with a sauce that was a welcome change from the usual white wine and cream, which so commonly accompanies this type of fish. Although they were delicious, the absence of a finger bowl was noted, leaving me working through a rather large number of napkins.

Mussels

My sister opted for a deliciously fresh crab and mango tian, which at £7, was a the perfect choice for those opting for a lighter lunch. Our fellow diner was pulled towards the traditional fish and chips, served with mushy peas and tartare sauce. His dedication to working through this hearty portion was admirable, as he commented about the freshness of the fish, and the crispness of the chips.

The sociable nature of our lunch encouraged us to accompany our meal with a bottle of Sicilian white wine (Planeta Alastro Greganico, £23) which accompanied our fish perfectly.

Unfortunately we were too full for desserts, and rounded off our meal with three espressos (£1.75 each), leaving us ready to tackle the rest of the day.

Other than the absence of a finger bowl, which is essential when eating something as ungraceful as mussels, we were all in agreement that our experience at Cafe Fish was a good one, and that we were all willing to part with our hard earned cash to go back and eat there again.

Suitable for disabled? Yes, the restaurant has accessible seating and toilets on the ground floor.

More details on the Cafe Fish website.

www.edinburghspotlight.com/2011/07/review-cafe-fish-stockbridge/

IT’S bizarre. You wait years for a new, good, cheap fish restaurant to come along and then, all of a sudden, four arrive at the same time.

Hot on the heels of the excellent Waterfront in Oban, the peerless Seafood Cafe at Loch Leven and the runaway success that is Crabshakk in Glasgow, Edinburgh’s newest addition opened recently in Leith and is going down a storm with the locals.

Cafe Fish is the handiwork of chef Richard Muir, who has returned to the city of his birth after working for Gary Rhodes and then setting up the successful Carmelite Hotel in Aberdeen. His chosen venue is the former Vintage Bar in Henderson Street, the Leith road with more Michelin stars than any other in Scotland.

The new establishment is around the corner from Restaurant Martin Wishart, sandwiched between the Plumed Horse and the Vintners Rooms and overshadowed by a couple of grotty tenement buildings. It is also, happily, little more than 100 yards from the Roseleaf, one of Leith’s best bars.

Muir’s vision is a lively, busy fish restaurant that serves locally sourced produce at prices that aren’t exclusive, and the space is set up to reflect those aims. It’s unashamedly modern, the big airy space reached via a revolving door. Once inside, you are struck by the brushed metal counters and tables, wooden floors and a mix of whitewashed and stone walls, not to mention the open kitchen. With huge picture windows along one wall, Velux windows in the roof and a dizzying amount of lights pointing in seemingly random directions, the placed is bathed in light

With its bare walls and high ceilings, it can also get very, very noisy. This might be a bad thing if you were out for a romantic tte–tte, but it’s not so loud that you can’t hear yourself speak or think. Besides,

suspect that the ambience fits in neatly with Muir’s desire to bring a bustling energy to the place. In this he has certainly succeeded; Cafe Fish is undeniably a dynamic urban environment.

If the atmosphere is spot-on, what of the food? Muir brought with him two female chefs, Virginae Dumon and India Innes, and both can be seen charging around the kitchen at the far end of the restaurant. And judging from the results of their labours, they both clearly know their business.

The menu is small but interesting and changes markedly each day – always a good indicator that the freshest ingredients are in play. There’s also a definite attempt to mix the unadorned standards with some more off-beat options, especially using spices in the way that’s commonplace when working with fish in African cuisine.

That said, we both started off with pretty conventional starters, Alice plumping for the fish soup while I went for the black pudding with goat’s cheese and caramelised onions. Both turned out to be winners, with Alice’s fish soup a nicely creamy, pink concoction studded with white fish, while my Stornoway black pudding was a smooth, moist example that went perfectly with the cheese and sweet onions.

We were joined for the main course by our tardy friend Charlie, who had radioed in his choice of mackerel. I chose the lemon sole and Alice the roast spiced cod with olive oil mash, salsa and crme frache. All three were good, with my simply poached lemon sole being the pick of the bunch.

Charlie’s seared and heavily spiced mackerel was by far the most interesting, though; the fish having been cooked almost dry and proving hotter than any fish you’ll ever find outside of an Indian restaurant. It was a treatment that found favour with our latecomer, who wouldn’t hesitate to order it again.

Much the same went for Alice, whose chunky fillet of spiced cod was basted with a spicy crust and came with a slightly spiced ratatouille and new potatoes. Although the subtle flavours of the fish were in constant danger of being overwhelmed, the chefs had stayed on the right side of the line in this well-conceived dish. Once again, the verdict was a positive one.

My experience is that pudding in fish restaurants is barely worth bothering about, but in the interests of scientific research Charlie and I waded in. My chocolate tart was good, but definitely of the standard-issue variety, but once again Charlie went for the off-beat option and struck gold. His rum-soaked, seared pineapple compote with vanilla ice-cream didn’t sound remotely alluring, but turned out to be a winner – mainly because the highly interesting mushed pineapple was unrecognisable as such, though the rum was easy to spot.

And what of the damage? Muir sets out “to explode the myth that you have to spend 50 per head for a plate of fish and a glass or two of wine”, and with two courses for 19 and three for 23, he certainly succeeds in doing that. Although I’d describe it as decent value rather than cheap.

Cafe Fish is definitely a welcome addition to Edinburgh’s restaurant scene and one I’ll be returning to in the near future. In fact, with the exception of a faintly acidic bottle of Viognier, there were no black marks against the place. The service is friendly and efficient, the food is good, the prices are sensible and even the loos are pristine. But more than that, the informal environment and buzzing atmosphere will ensure that Cafe Fish will become the success that the prodigal Muir is seeking.

Vital Statistics

Cafe Fish, 60 Henderson Street, Leith, Edinburgh (0131-538 6131, www.cafefish.net)

Out of pocket Two-course dinner £19

Three-course dinner 23

Rating 8/10

www.scotsman.com/news/restaurant_review_caf_233_fish_edinburgh_1_1355753

RIGHT, let’s get all the unsavoury stuff out of the way first…A large glass of white wine (250ml of a very modest sauvignon blanc that you could probably pick up at Lidl for £1.99 a bottle) cost a whopping £8.

The beer? Something called Sagres that looked exactly like those wee stumpy bottles of brew you’d buy for the equivalent of 20p from a French hypermarket.

At Cafe Fish, however, they were £3.50 a pop. Gulp!

To be fair, though, I suppose they’ve got to try to make their money somewhere.

You see, folks, lunch was a steal – just a tenner for two courses. “This place is a bit like a glorified soup kitchen,” remarked my mate James, “they’re giving the food away!”

And he was 100 per cent right. In fact, you know what? Having set the precedent with the amazing Pink Olive – our current Hot Plate winner – I’m also going to award Cafe Fish a well-deserved six out of five for value.

You’ll find this cracking wee place on Henderson Street (well within staggering distance of my favourite local boozer The King’s Wark where we’d enjoyed a couple of pre-lunch pints) in that little corner of Leith that’s fast becoming the culinary capital of Scotland.

Locally sourced Scottish seafood is what Cafe Fish is all about and, on a quiet Wednesday lunchtime, it was a one-man (bar) and a one-woman (kitchen) operation.

A star performance from both members of staff ensured we enjoyed a great day out. After perching ourselves on a stools at the long, shiny bar (this area is even more popular than the conventional tables at weekends, apparently) we had a glance at the “specials” lunch menu.

The Stornoway black pudding with goat’s cheese and caramelised onions sounded good at £7. As did the spiced roasted North Atlantic cod with a hot tomato & lemongrass salsa and olive oil mash at £13. Not to mention (if you like that sort of thing – and I don’t) a half-dozen Bracadale oysters for £14.

However, the standard £10 for two courses menu sounded even better and I’d urge you to give it a bash.

The excellent value for money was evident from the moment my starter – homemade fishcakes with tartare sauce – appeared from the kitchen.

Quite frankly, this duo of fat, crunchy, fishy parcels – packed with haddock – would have been well worth a tenner on their own. Ditto the carrot and coriander soup enjoyed by James – “nice and thick and tasty and homemade” – that even came with a generous basket of crusty bread.

Little touches like that are nothing short of outrageous on a £10 menu.

Everything at Cafe Fish is cooked fresh by the talented chef in the open-plan kitchen down the back and the way we had to wait a few minutes for our main courses told us (as you might have expected for a tenner) that it certainly wasn’t a couple of platefuls that had been chucked in the microwave.

My grilled mackerel fillet – and perfectly accompanied by a crunchy black pudding croquette and a light cauliflower cream – was perfectly simple and, well, simply perfect.

Bizarrely, though, in a seafood joint called Cafe Fish, it was a distinctly non-fish dish that stole the show. James ordered the braised ribeye steak (which meant there was nothing fishy about his entire afternoon – apart from the fact he never seemed to buy a single round of drinks – and it was truly excellent.

Served with a delicious olive oil mash and “paysanne” (a French term for root vegetables cut into thin strips – thank heavens for Google) the tender, slow-cooked beef was a bit like shin or blade – proper melt-in-the-mouth stuff.

We invested another two quid in a side order of arguably the best chips in Edinburgh out with the legendary L’Alba D’Oro which were done in their skins and, unless I’m mistaken, twice-cooked for a satisfying crunch.

On the way out, I noticed the dinner menu is also good value (£19-£23 for two-three courses) and I was about to say I’m looking forward to returning one evening to see what the a la carte line-up is like. But that would be a lie. Based on this visit, the £10 lunch menu is simply too good to resist.

PS. Just when I thought Cafe Fish couldn’t get any better, I popped in for a quick pee – and the toilet had a Dyson Airblade. Quality.

tam.cowan@ dailyrecord.co.uk

CAFE FISH: 60 Henderson Street, Leith; Tel: 0131 538 6131; Open: All day Tue-Sat and noon-4pm Sun; Wheelchair access: Yes; Bill for two (with wine): £45

Food: 5/5 – fab fish; Service: 4/5 – keen to please; Decor: 4/5 – smart; Toilets: 5/5 – pristine; Value: 6/5 – merits the bonus point

Total: 24/25

www.dailyrecord.co.uk/life/food-and-drink/restaurant-reviews/2010/06/05/cafe-fish-60-henderson-street-leith-edinburgh-86908-22311559/